The accommodation of Korean folk religion to the religious form of Buddhism:

an example of reverse syncretism

by James Huntley Grayson

Asian Folklore Studies

Vol.51 No.2

Pp.199-217

Oct 1992

COPYRIGHT Asian Folklore Studies (Japan) 1992


           
            In a previous study (Grayson 1984) I have examined the question of 
            the process of religious syncretism as an aspect of the transmission 
            and development of Buddhism during the era of the Three Kingdoms in 
            ancient Korea. The religious syncretism of that period is an example 
            of a world missionary religion, Buddhism, accommodating itself to 
            the fundamental religious ethos of the culture to which it has been 
            transmitted. In this study I propose to examine another form of 
            syncretism, a syncretism that is the reverse of the process that is 
            normally observed to have occurred during the period of the Three 
            Kingdoms: the accommodation of the autochthonous religion of Korea 
            with the missionary religion, Buddhism. Although the historical 
            evidence for the exact means by which this process of reverse 
            syncretism took place is slim, syncretized Korean folk religion is 
            an obvious, if often overlooked, feature of the religious scene in 
            contemporary Korea. This paper is divided into three principal 
            sections. In the first, I discuss a definition of religious 
            syncretism; in the second, I present two models for the process of 
            syncretism: High Syncretism and Low Syncretism; in the third, I 
            examine in some detail the major shamanistic center in Seoul, which 
            gives clear evidence of the effects of reverse syncretism. 
            What Is Syncretism? 
            Religious syncretism is a cultural process that may be understood as 
            one part of the broader process of cultural diffusion. This has been 
            long recognized to be the case by historians of religion and by 
            cultural anthropologists. James Moffatt (1870-1944), Carsten Colpe, 
            and others have observed that religious syncretism occurs as the 
            result of the diffusion of culture or elements of culture from one 
            ethnic group or cultural sphere to another ethnic group or cultural 
            world. Moffatt speaks of syncretism as a "blending of religious 
            ideas and practices" that are "often preceded and accelerated by a 
            new philosophical synthesis as well as by a political 
            re-arrangement" (Moffat 1921, 156). Defined fined in this way, 
            religious syncretism is placed squarely within a particular 
            historic, cultural, and political context. Colpe goes further and 
            describes syncretism as 1) a condition or a process in which either 
            the missionary religion or the indigenous religion predominates, or 
            2) a state in which a mutual balance between two religious 
            traditions is achieved (Colpe 1987). 
            E. H. Pyle points out that syncretism can occur either as a 
            spontaneous and natural result of intercultural contact, or as the 
            result of some plan, which may have religious and/or political 
            dimensions as well. In his view, not all syncretism is either 
            unplanned or random. Pyle adds that it is important to understand 
            this cultural process of religious syncretism in order to comprehend 
            both the rise of the great, historic world religions and the 
            emergence of various new religious movements that have appeared 
            recently in the Third World and elsewhere (Pyle 1984, 317). 
            J. A. NORTH, in discussing the formation of syncretic cults in the 
            Roman Empire, says that religious syncretism is "the merging of 
            elements from different traditions, characteristically in 
            circumstances of political or cultural dominance/subjection" (1984, 
            317). This definition, like Moffatt's, points beyond the simple 
            concept of intercultural contact leading to religious mixture, and 
            stresses the unequal political and cultural relations that may exist 
            between two peoples during the period of intercultural contact. 
            As one example of the process of religious syncretism, North cites 
            the modifications that were made in the beliefs and practices 
            relating to the worship of the indigenous Roman deities after the 
            Romans had come into contact with the Etruscans and the Greeks. 
            According to North, this type of religious syncretism would occur 
            when a significant cultural disparity between the two groups 
            entering into contact is the principal nonreligious factor. North 
            also cites the example of tribal peoples within the Roman Empire 
            applying the names of the Roman deities to their own autochthonous 
            spirits. Whilst there is an obvious cultural disparity between the 
            two groups in this latter situation, it would seem that in this 
            instance the political relations between the Romans and the tribal 
            peoples would have been the dominant nonreligious factor. North also 
            cites a third case of religious syncretism, in which the Pax Romana, 
            the condition of universal peace within the Roman Empire, provided a 
            context in which the religions of subject civilizations (such as 
            Egypt) could spread beyond the boundaries of their original nation 
            and mix with the religions of the tribal peoples of the Roman 
            Empire, and indeed of the Romans themselves (North 1984, 317-18). 
            Outside the Roman Empire, the most frequently cited examples of 
            religious syncretism by historians of religion are Manichaean 
            religion and Ryobu Shinto, both of which are also examples of 
            intentional syncretism. In the case of the Manichaean cult, the 
            founder Mani (216-277) was a Parthian who had been brought up in a 
            family that practised one of the Gnostic cults. Through a series of 
            revelations, Mani came to believe that he had been given the 
            authority to create a new religion that would be the fulfillment of 
            the three world religions of that era: Buddhism, Christianity, and 
            Zoroastrianism. in this case, Mani's religious syncretism was a 
            conscious attempt to draw together the essential tenets of the 
            principal religions of the Persian Empire.(1) 
            Ryobu Shinto, although a conscious attempt to create a syncretic 
            religion, is different from the example of Manichaeanism in that it 
            was an attempt to harmonize a world religion, Buddhism, with 
            indigenous religious practices, the Shinto cults of Japan. Following 
            the introduction of Buddhism to Japan in the sixth century, there 
            existed a state of tension between the foreign cult and the 
            indigenous cults. This conflict was seemingly overcome during the 
            era of Shotoku Taishi (573-621), when Buddhism was finally granted 
            official recognition. Nonetheless, even though Buddhism spread 
            throughout Japan during the course of the next two centuries, a 
            state of uneasy peace must have existed between the practices and 
            beliefs of the two religious systems. In the eighth century, the 
            Shingon sect of Buddhism, an esoteric sect, developed a concept 
            called Ryobu Shinto, or Shinto with Two Aspects. In the view of the 
            Shingon practitioners, the native Shinto deities of Japan were 
            particular manifestations of the Buddhas or bodhisattvas. Through 
            the concept of Ryobu Shinto, the Shingon Buddhists provided both a 
            universalistic and a particularistic explanation for their own 
            religious practices while at the same time aiding in the 
            indigenization of Buddhism in Japan (Anesaki 1930, 136-38; Kitagawa 
            1966, 58, 68-69). The concept of Ryobu Shinto as developed by 
            Shingon priests is similar to the process by which the Romans 
            identified their own gods with the gods of the Etruscans and the 
            Greeks.(2) 
            Two Types of Religious Syncretism 
            On the basis of my own experience, I have come to believe that there 
            are at least two forms of syncretism that may occur as the result of 
            sustained contact between a world religion (Buddhism, Christianity, 
            Islam, etc.) and a religion indigenous to a particular people. When 
            there has been a high degree of syncretism by the transmitted 
            religion with the indigenous religion, the result will be that the 
            core values of the indigenous religion will constitute the center of 
            the new religion, with the missionary religion providing many 
            external or superficial features. On the other hand, when there has 
            been a low degree of syncretism by the missionary religion with the 
            autochthonous cults, the core values of the missionary religion will 
            form the central aspect of the new religion, with the indigenous 
            religion providing certain superficial features or details. I 
            believe that every religion, whether a world religion, a higher 
            religion, or a folk religion, has a certain core set of values, 
            concepts, or beliefs. If these core values are altered, one can then 
            say that syncretic change has been made in a certain direction away 
            from the traditional belief system. Likewise, in the absence of 
            significant change in the core set of values, however many 
            superficial changes may have been made (i.e., changes in names of 
            gods, and so forth), one can say that the process of syncretism was 
            only superficial. 
            Figure 1 illustrates the case where significant change in the core 
            set of values of the missionary religion has taken place, whilst 
            figure 2 illustrates superficial, syncretic change in the cultural 
            and religious features of the missionary religion. The type of 
            syncretism illustrated in figure 1 I term High Syncretism, and the 
            type of syncretism illustrated in figure 2 I term Low Syncretism. 
            Although Korea provides examples of both High and Low Syncretism, in 
            this paper I will be examining only a case of High Syncretism, the 
            accommodation made by the autochthonous religion of Korea to 
            Buddhism. As High Syncretism is the reverse of what is normally 
            thought to be religious syncretism, I also refer to it as "reverse 
            syncretism." 
            What I am calling here Low Syncretism, the more superficial 
            accommodation made by a world religion with an indigenous cult, is 
            usually what is understood to be the process of religious 
            syncretism. The most obvious example in Korea of this particular 
            process of syncretism may be observed in the case of Buddhist 
            temples where the sansin-gak (mountain god shrine), the samsin-gak 
            (three spirit shrine), or the ch'ilsong-gak (seven-star <pole star> 
            spirit shrine) have become constituent parts of the layout of the 
            temple precinct. These shrines, which are dedicated to autochthonous 
            deities, have become subsidiary shrines within the total temple 
            complex, and the rituals practised in them have become one component 
            of the total ritual system practised at the temples. These three 
            spiritual figures--the mountain god, the three spirits, and the 
            seven-star spirit--are all manifestations of the mountain god, a 
            master spirit who has control of all the mountains of Korea, and who 
            is also said to be a guise of Tan'gun, the mythical first king of 
            Korea. These subsidiary shrines are a prime illustration in Korea of 
            a conscious attempt made by a foreign religion, Buddhism, to absorb 
            the external forms of the indigenous religion without changing the 
            essential character of the foreign religion.(3) 
            The reverse of "normal" syncretism--which I have referred to as Low 
            Syncretism--is what I have termed High Syncretism. This latter form 
            of syncretism, not often referred to as such by historians of 
            religions, is a phenomenon widely observed by cultural 
            anthropologists. It is, in short, the accommodation made by an 
            indigenous religion to the beliefs, practices, and imagery of a 
            world religion. To cite one illustration, Gary H. Gossen, in an 
            examination of the Roman Catholic practices of the Mayan people in a 
            remote part of the Yucatan Peninsula, demonstrated that their 
            current religious practices were the folk practices of a bygone era 
            quite literally dressed up in the guise of Roman Catholicism. Names 
            of saints, forms of rituals, and the dates for the performance of 
            rituals, although ostensibly related to Roman Catholic usage, in 
            reality only expressed the primal concepts of the Mayan people 
            (Gossen 1972, 135-49). 
            We have seen another example of High Syncretism in the syncretic 
            religions that emerged following intercultural contact between the 
            Romans and the tribal peoples of the Roman Empire. The tribal 
            peoples, in a state of political subjugation to the Romans, came to 
            apply the names of various Roman deities to the gods they 
            worshipped. A similar situation of political subjugation would have 
            existed between the Spanish conquistadores and the Mayan people in 
            the sixteenth century. 
            A third example of High Syncretism would be the Cargo Cults, 
            especially the Christian-derived cults, which arose in New Guinea 
            and other parts of Melanesia from the middle of the nineteenth 
            century. In this case, unlike the two previous examples, high 
            religious syncretism was enabled, not by conditions of political 
            subjugation, but by conditions of perceived economic and cultural 
            disparity.(4) 
            Although it is not often commented on in the literature of religious 
            studies, there was a similar process of accommodation made by the 
            indigenous religion of Korea to Buddhism. This process of High 
            Syncretism must have begun at the time when Buddhism, a world 
            missionary religion, first entered Korea. It is also my opinion that 
            this form of High Syncretism would have occurred more or less 
            contemporaneously with the accommodation made by Buddhism to Korean 
            primal religion. Given conditions of geopolitical disunion in China 
            and the relative political strength of the ancient Korean kingdoms 
            of Koguryo and Paekche, the process of High Syncretism would have 
            occurred in Korea under conditions of perceived cultural disparity 
            rather than in a context of political subjugation. Although there is 
            very little documentary evidence for the history of this process of 
            high religious syncretism, nonetheless, the results of this process 
            are obvious to the observer of the contemporary religious scene in 
            Korea. 
            Perhaps the earliest evidence for reverse syncretism is a story 
            contained in the book of ancient Korean tales, the Samguk yusa 
            (Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms). In this story, it is related 
            that when a detached palace was under construction during the reign 
            of King Chinhung (r. 540-576), a yellow dragon was discovered to be 
            living at the bottom of a pool on the construction site. The 
            construction of the palace was halted immediately. When construction 
            was recommenced, the building was dedicated to the dragon but in the 
            form of a Buddhist temple. The dedication of this shrine as the 
            Hwangyong-sa (Temple of the Yellow Dragon) is a strong indication 
            that by the sixth century, shrines that would have been 
            unequivocably dedicated to indigenous spirits in a previous age 
            were, in the new Buddhist era, disguised as Buddhist temples.(5) 
            I first began to recognize the existence of this "reverse 
            syncretism" when I read Laurel Kendall's anthropological study 
            Shamans, Housewives, and Other Restless Spirits: Women in Korean 
            Ritual Life (1985). In this book, Kendall mentions the close 
            relationship between autochthonous shamanism and Buddhism. She 
            states that the mansin, or shaman, and her clients "called their 
            shrine worship Pulgyo, ~Buddhism'" (Kendall 1985, 84). She also 
            remarked that the mansin with whom she was particularly friendly 
            would introduce her to other people saying that Kendall was "a 
            student of Buddhism" (Kendall 1985, 84). I realized then that in 
            examining the question of religious syncretism in Korea, I had been 
            looking at it only from the aspect of the accommodation made by 
            Buddhism to the indigenous religious practices of Korea. Kendall's 
            comments made me realize that there was another process, a process 
            of reverse syncretism, in which the indigenous religion absorbed 
            certain features of the world religion without altering its 
            essential character. 
            Kendall's book stimulated me to examine what aspects of the current 
            Korean religious scene might reflect a process of reverse syncretism 
            by the folk religion of Korea with foreign religions in Korea. There 
            are numerous examples, some of which are well known, but because the 
            difference between what I term High and Low Syncretism is not often 
            distinguished, this remarkable process of the accommodation of folk 
            religious practice with a missionary religion is seldom described in 
            the literature. To exemplify what I mean by reverse syncretism, in 
            the remainder of this study I will describe one of the major 
            shamanistic centers in Korea, for it shows strong evidence of this 
            process. The description will focus largely on the material aspects 
            of the syncretic religious practice, rather than on the actual 
            ritual aspects, which need further research. 
            A Case Study: The Sacred Site at Muak-tong 
            Location and History of the Site 
            The principal shamanistic center for Seoul is located in the hilly, 
            eastern section of Muak-tong in Sodaemun-gu in western central 
            Seoul. This area is just beyond and to the northeast of the 
            Independence Arch. The site of the shamanistic center is just 
            outside the western wall of the old city of Seoul in the hilly 
            flanks of Inwang-san on the approach to the Muak Pass. The sacred 
            buildings of the shamanistic center are built around the rim of a 
            Ushaped valley. 
            It is said that when the walls for the capital of the new Choson 
            dynasty (1392-1910) were being laid out there was considerable 
            discussion between two advisors to the king about whether or not a 
            certain grouping of weird rocks should be enclosed within the walls 
            of the new city. Chong Tojon (?-1398), the great Confucian scholar, 
            argued that they should not be included within the boundaries of the 
            new capital, whereas the king's religious preceptor, the monk Muhak 
            (1327-1405), argued that they should be. Chong argued that because 
            of the "superstitious practices" conducted in front of the strange 
            rocks, it was inappropriate to enclose them within the walls of the 
            new dynasty's capital. In the end, the king agreed with Chong and 
            decided that the rocks should not be included within the city walls. 
            This is the first known historic reference to the Son pawi (Son 
            <Zen> monk rock), a tall basaltic rock group much ravaged by the 
            elements into weird hollowed-out shapes. It is obvious from the 
            arguments about the rock that even in the fourteenth century the Son 
            pawi was already a focal point for the practice of certain 
            shamanistic rites. In the twentieth century, it was to become the 
            nucleus of a major shamanistic ritual center. 
            The development of this sacred site around the Son pawi was an 
            unintended effect of the Japanese attempt to impose the State Shinto 
            cult on Korea. When the Japanese colonial government decided to 
            build the central Shinto shrine for Korea on the slopes of 
            Nam-san--the prinicipal mountain in southern Seoul--a decision was 
            also made to remove a shamanistic shrine on the top of the mountain 
            that would have overlooked the site of the new Shinto shrine. This 
            shamanistic shrine, called the Kuksa-dang, was originally located on 
            the site of the present octagonal pavillion that is on the top of 
            Nam-san. In July 1925 the proprietors of the Kuksa-dang acceded to 
            the demands of the Japanese governor-general to remove the shrine 
            building. The Kuksa-dang was reerected below the sacred site around 
            the Son pawi. During the interwar years, from the 1920s onwards, 
            further private constructions were made on the slopes below the 
            Kuksa-dang until, by the early 1960s, a village of temples and 
            shrines had emerged. It would seem that the sacredness of the Son 
            pawi itself became a magnet that drew first the Kuksa-dang and then 
            subsequent shrines, creating a complex, hierarchical sacred space 
            composed of a variety of shrines and "temples." 
            Description of the Site 
            Map 1 shows the three principal sections of the site: 1) the area 
            around the gate that separates the entire sacred area from the 
            profane world outside; 2) the outer sacred area comprising "temples" 
            and shrines that have been built beneath the core area; and 3) the 
            inner sacred area or core precinct comprising the Kuksa-dang and the 
            Son pawi. I will describe each section in turn. 
            1. The Sacred Gate 
            Emile Durkheim (1912), Mircea Eliade (1959), and other sociologists 
            and historians of religions have made much of the distinction 
            between the sacred and the profane. According to these authorities 
            it is usual in the layout of a temple or shrine that there is some 
            indication that the ground surrounding the shrine or temple is 
            sacred, that it is "set apart." In the folk religion of Korea a rope 
            is used to indicate that the area is set apart, whereas in Buddhism 
            the entrance to a temple precinct is marked off by a sacred gate 
            called an ilju-mun. The tradition of placing such gates at the 
            entrance to Buddhist sacred precincts dates back at least to the 
            practice of placing four gates at the four cardinal points around 
            the stupas of Sanchi in India in the first century B.C.(6) 
            In the case of the sacred area of Muak-tong, the precinct is marked 
            off by a large ilju-mun at the entrance to the sacred precinct. This 
            gate has a large wooden placard on its principal crossbeam that 
            bears the inscription "Inwang-san Inwang-sa". The inscription on the 
            placard follows the normal Korean Buddhist practice of giving both 
            the name of the temple and the name of the mountain upon which it is 
            situated. 
            It is important to note in the case of this temple placard that, 
            although the words inwang in the name of the mountain and in the 
            name of the temple are homophonous, they are not synonymous. 
            Different Chinese characters with different meanings are used in the 
            two names. The inwang (benevolent king) referred to in the title of 
            the temple is the principal figure in the Inwang-gyong (Ch. Renwang 
            qing, Sutra of the Benevolent King), one of the key scriptures of 
            the esoteric schools of Buddhism that were introduced into Silla 
            from the seventh century. This king (a guise of one of the Buddhas) 
            promises protection to the nation that worships him with true 
            devotion. The Paekchwahoe (Assembly of One Hundred Seats) of the 
            Silla period was an important Buddhist ceremony dedicated to the 
            adoration of this figure and to an explanation of the scripture 
            dedicated to him.(7) The appearance of the name of this figure from 
            esoteric Buddhism, the inwang, on the temple name board is the 
            visitor's first clue that shrines within the sacred precinct do not 
            belong to traditional, orthodox Buddhism. Mainstream monastic 
            Buddhism in Korea is almost exclusively Son Buddhism (Jap. Zen), 
            which places an emphasis on meditation for liberation and 
            enlightenment. 
            2. The Outer Sacred Precinct 
            Within the outer sacred area there are a number of sacred 
            structures, including 1) "temples," 2) ancilliary shrines to various 
            "temples," 3) separate shrines not designated as part of a 
            particular "temple" complex, and 4) undesignated houses used for the 
            performance of a kut (shamanistic ceremony). Until a few years ago 
            one of the most striking features of this sacred area was the fact 
            that none of the Buddhistic "temples" claimed affiliation with any 
            of the Buddhist orders that are legally registered with the 
            government of the Republic of Korea. This is no longer the case, as 
            two of the "temple" buildings now claim affiliation with two of the 
            major Korean Buddhist denominations. 
            Every building that has a claim to being a "Buddhist temple" in this 
            area has a signboard on the outer perimeter of its grounds 
            announcing what temple it is. For example, the signboard for the 
            Inwang-sa states in the Korean alphabet: "Tae Han Pulgyo Inwang-san 
            Inwang-sa" (Korean Buddhism, Mount Inwang Inwang Temple). What is 
            missing from the signboards of these "temples" is the denominational 
            designation that appears on the placard of every orthodox temple 
            stating its affiliation with a particular order of Buddhism. There 
            is no such designation on the signboards of the "temples" in 
            Muak-tong because such denominational affiliation does not exist. 
            The "temples" are private property. 
            When I visited the sacred area of Muak-tong in August 1990, I 
            noticed that there were now two temples claiming denominational 
            affiliation with two legally registered Buddhist orders. The 
            signboard in front of the Yongch'on-sa claimed that the temple was 
            affiliated with the Pure Land Buddhist sect. This legally 
            constituted sect, contrary to the practice of its antecedents in 
            China and Korea, is one of the esoteric sects of modern Korean 
            Buddhism. A rather different case is the temple to the right of the 
            entrance to the outer sacred area just beyond the ilju-mun. The 
            signboard on the outside of the Ch'onan-sa claimed that it was a 
            member of the principal denomination of orthodox Korean Buddhism, 
            the Chogye sect. 
            One other feature of the "temples" in the outer sacred area is the 
            fact that the majority of the signboards are written in the Korean 
            alphabet rather than in Chinese characters. Consequently, although 
            one can guess at many of the characters behind the alphabetically 
            written names, it is impossible to know for certain the exact 
            designations of all of them. 
            There was some confusion, possibly deliberate, about the exact 
            identification of the Inwang-sa temple mentioned on the ilju-mun at 
            the entrance. There is one major complex of shrines in the outer 
            sacred precinct that in its center has a large building designated 
            as the tae'ung-jon, or principal shrine of a Buddhist temple. In an 
            orthodox temple, this is the building that contains the figure of 
            the historic Buddha, Sakyamuni. However, north of this major 
            complex, across the alley and behind its principal shrine, is 
            another building claiming to be the tae'ung-jon of the Inwang-sa. 
            During my visit in August 1990 both of these shrines seemed to have 
            a flourishing business. 
            Aside from the regular and irregular temples in the outer sacred 
            precinct and their associated outer shrines, there were eight houses 
            that had no signboards designating them as Buddhist temples. These 
            buildings were houses used for the performance of shamanistic 
            rituals. Each house had, set up in its courtyard and visible from 
            the alleyway, a long bamboo pole that announced that this building 
            was a place where a kut could be performed. 
            Among these undesignated buildings there was also one house that, 
            during a previous visit of mine to this area in 1985, had been 
            designated as a "Buddhist hermitage" and that in 1990 had no 
            designation whatsoever. This change from a designated Buddhist 
            structure to an undesignated building is an indication of the 
            impermanence of some of these "Buddhist" institutions. 
            Among the buildings of the outer sacred precinct there are also a 
            hexagonal pavilion providing a place of rest for visitors to the 
            area, and a corner shop selling various household items and foods. 
            3. The Inner Sacred Precinct 
            The Kuksa-dang 
            Access to the Kuksa-dang(8) is gained by leaving the outer sacred 
            precinct and proceeding upwards through a shallow depression, 
            passing the smaller of the two Inwang-sa tae'ung-jon on the left and 
            the hexagonal pavilion on the right. Immediately before reaching the 
            raised terrace upon which the Kuksa-dang has been reerected, there 
            is a large tree, the limbs of which have been sawn back. On the 
            stumps of the limbs are hung the brilliantly colored cloths that 
            would have been used in a shamanistic ceremony. The placing of these 
            cloths on the limbs of the tree next to the Kuksa-dang shrine is 
            like the Korean custom of placing strips of cloth on trees or bushes 
            just before the crest of a mountain pass. The latter act represents 
            a pious offering to the mountain god, petitioning him to bless the 
            traveler's journey. In the case of the Kuksa-dang, passage beyond 
            the venerable tree would indicate the passage from the outer to the 
            inner sacred precinct and a wish for a safe journey. 
            The Kuksa-dang itself is a very old building, though whether it is 
            as old as claimed can probably not be historically verified. It is 
            said to date to the reign of King T'aejong (r. 1400-1418). The 
            shrine is known to have occupied a site on the highest part of 
            Nam-san since at least the end of the nineteenth century until the 
            first quarter of this century. Consequently, the Kuksa-dang is at 
            least one hundred and twenty years old. The interior of the shrine 
            consists of one large central room with two smaller rooms off to the 
            left- and right-hand sides. Around the walls of the main room are 
            hung twenty-eight different paintings. Twelve of these paintings are 
            said to date to 1623, while the remainder date from the end of the 
            nineteenth century. Among the figures depicted on the paintings are 
            Ch'on-sin (Spirit < Ruler) of Heaven), San-sin (Mountain God), 
            Su-sin (Water Spirit), King T'aejo (r. 1392-1398), founder of the 
            Choson dynasty, the monk Muhak, and the obang changgun, the 
            guardians of the five cardinal points of the East Asian compass. 
            These spirits are powerful figures in the native pantheon, whose 
            presence in the Kuksa-dang indicates a certain concern for the 
            affairs of the nation. It is said that when the Kuksa-dang was still 
            on Namsan, the most powerful shamans in the nation would go there to 
            perform rites for the protection, preservation, and prosperity of 
            the nation. At the end of the nineteenth century, it is alleged that 
            through the influence of Queen Min (1851-1895) shamanistic practices 
            on behalf of the state were frequently performed at the shrine site 
            on Nam-san. 
            The name of the Kuksa-dang may be translated as "the shrine of the 
            national preceptor." Kuksa was a title accorded to certain eminent 
            monks during the Koryo dynasty (926-1392) and was held by Muhak, the 
            preceptor to the first king of Choson. It is probable that the 
            national preceptor referred to in the name of the shrine is Muhak 
            himself. This supposition is strengthened by the presence of an 
            ancient painting of the great monk amongst the oldest shrine 
            paintings.(9) 
            Whatever the use of the Kuksa-dang may have been in the past, its 
            present function is somewhat different. The shrine functions in many 
            ways like a contemporary yesik-chang or wedding hall. Like the 
            yesik-chang, the Kuksa-dang is a hall rented out for ceremonial 
            purposes, in this case the performance of a kut. Along the back wall 
            of the shrine is a fitted altar. In the central section, just in 
            front of one of the sacred pictures, there is a telephone and a box 
            of business cards giving the address and telephone number of the 
            Kuksa-dang. Time and space at the Kuksa-dang can be booked by a 
            shaman for the performance of a particular rite. 
            The Son pawi 
            Proceeding north from the Kuksa-dang, one climbs up a series of 
            stairs until one comes out onto a concrete terrace with balustrades 
            in front of the Son pawi. Directly in front of this great pitted 
            rock is a large altar, divided into three sections. The principal 
            section is the long central altar itself. To the left- and 
            right-hand sides of this altar are two cabinets in the shape of a 
            tile-roofed pavilion. Inside these cabinets are sets of electric 
            votive candles that are lit to offer perpetual prayers for the 
            repose of various souls or to ask for a particular wish. In front of 
            the large altar is a centrally placed, smaller altar that is the 
            table for the incense burners. Although shamanistic, or folk 
            religious, worship in front of strange rocks deep in the mountains 
            is a common practice in Korea, I can think of no other example in 
            Korea where the area around a grouping of sacred rocks has been 
            clothed with Buddhistic ritual paraphernalia. 
            On the right-hand side of the Son pawi precinct there is a small 
            iron gate that opens out onto a path that ascends the bare rock face 
            of Mount Inwang. Some way up the mountain, this path leads to the 
            final shrine of the entire sacred area, a ch'ilsong-gak--a shrine 
            dedicated to the Spirit of the Pole Star. The picture within the 
            shrine, however, is of the tiger, the messenger of the mountain god. 
            This is not surprising, as it is common in Korea for the term 
            ch'ilsong-gak to be used as an alternative name for a shrine 
            dedicated to the mountain god. 
            The only other shrine dedicated to the mountain god is found on the 
            grounds of the Ch'onan-sa, the one temple that claims affiliation 
            with the principal Korean Buddhist denomination, the Chogye-jong. 
            Just beyond the precinct of the Kuksa-dang and within the precincts 
            of several of the "temples," there are freshwater springs. While 
            these springs serve the obvious purpose of providing water for 
            thirsty hikers and attendants at the shamanistic rituals, it is also 
            important to remember that worship of water spirits is an ancient 
            practice in Korea. The story of the yellow dragon, whose presence in 
            a pool of water led to the construction of the Hwangyong-sa, is one 
            indication of the antiquity of the worship of water spirits in 
            Korea. 
            4. Functions of the Shrines 
            All of the buildings in the inner and outer sacred precincts, 
            whether they are designated as Buddhist temples, hermitages, or 
            shrines, or whether they are undesignated buildings, are known to be 
            locations for the performance of shamanistic types of rituals. In 
            the undesignated buildings, such as the Kuksa-dang or private homes, 
            pure shamanistic rituals are performed. In the buildings designated 
            as Buddhist structures, rituals are performed that are similar in 
            format and intention to the kut of the undesignated buildings. The 
            rituals performed in the buildings designated as Buddhist use 
            Buddhistic elements. The spirits referred to in the rituals are 
            Buddhist figures; the clothing worn by the ritual leaders is 
            Buddhist in appearance; and many of the ritual paraphernalia and 
            implements used in the ceremonies are similar to the ceremonial 
            materials one would expect to see in an orthodox Buddhist temple. 
            Prominent amongst the ritual items of all of these "temples" are 
            Buddhist statues and paintings, which lend an air of authentic 
            Buddhism to the shrines. Several of the orthodox Buddhist festivals, 
            such as Buddha's Birthday, are also celebrated in these shrines. 
            Nonetheless, the format of the ceremonies performed in these 
            "Buddhist" shrines, and the reasons for their performance, are 
            comparable to the rituals performed in the undesignated buildings. 
            It is for this reason that one can be justified in saying that all 
            of these shrines and the rituals performed in them are collectively 
            an example of syncretic shamanism, a product of the accommodation 
            made by the indigenous religion of Korea to Buddhism. 
            CONCLUDING COMMENTS 
            From observation of the layout of the sacred ritual area at 
            Muak-tong and of its component structures, one may draw the 
            following conclusions: 
            1) that the sanctity of the Son pawi acted as a magnet that 
            initially 
            drew around itself the relocated Kuksa-dang and later a host 
            of ritual structures originally unrelated to either the sacred rocks 
            
            or the Kuksa-dang; 
            2) that there is a clearly differentiated, hierarchical layout of 
            sacred space in the area around the Son pawi, consisting of two 
            areas: an inner sacred precinct encompassing the sacred rocks 
            and the Kuksa-dang; and an outer sacred precinct comprising 
            various "Buddhist" temples and undesignated shamanistic houses; 
            3) that, although the rituals, implements, and decor of the 
            Kuksadang 
            are characteristic of pure Korean shamanism, the superficial 
            appearance of the paraphernalia in front of the Son pawi is 
            Buddhistic, 
            indicating a Buddhist sacralization of even the most sacred 
            of the shamanistic ritual precincts; 
            4) that the predominant feature of the outer sacred precinct is 
            the large number of "Buddhist" temples and ancillary shrines, 
            even though there are also several undesignated buildings that are 
            the venue for pure Korean shamanistic rituals; 
            5) that the rituals practised in front of the Son pawi, in the 
            Kuksadang, 
            and in the various "Buddhist" temples and undesignated 
            shamanistic houses, are wholly shamanistic in character, form, 
            and purpose regardless of differences in superficial, external 
            appearances; 
            and 
            6) that the entire ritual area at Muak-tong is set apart as a sacred 
            
            area, not by a rope (as in Korean folk tradition), but by an 
            ilju-mun, 
            a sacred practice clearly borrowed from Buddhism. 
            All of these points taken collectively would indicate that there has 
            been a process of reverse syncretism in an area of high sanctity to 
            indigenous Korean shamanism, the effect of which has been to clothe 
            the entire sacred area around the Son pawi in a Buddhist guise. 
            Although this process of reverse syncretism in Muak-tong took place 
            in the twentieth century, stories in the Samguk yusa would indicate 
            that there is a precedent in Korea for this phenomenon as far back 
            as the sixth century. The author believes that it is important that 
            historians of religions, folklorists, and cultural anthropologists 
            consider the question of reverse syncretism as an important element 
            in studying the diffusion of culture and religion. In the case of 
            Korea, further study of the rituals practised in "Buddhist" temples, 
            such as those at Muak-tong, is important to show the degree to which 
            certain practices have become "Buddhicized." 
            NOTES 
            (1.) A good history and discussion of the consciously contrived 
            syncretism of the prophet Mani may be found in Gnoli 1987. (2.) The 
            Tendai sect had a similar concept called Sanno Ichijitsu. For a 
            discussion of this phenomenon, see Kitagawa 1966, 68. For a fuller 
            discussion of the process of syncretism in Japanese Buddhism, see 
            Kamstra 1967. (3.) The process whereby the cult of the mountain god 
            was absorbed into the cultic practices taking place within Buddhist 
            temple precincts must have begun sometime in the seventh century, as 
            it was during that period that the major mountain ranges in Korea 
            were given their present Buddhist-style names. See Grayson 1989, 53. 
            A fuller treatment of the process of Buddhist syncretism in Korea 
            may be found in my earlier work, Grayson 1985. See especially 
            chapter 2. (4.) Discussions of the history and anthropological 
            interpretations of the Cargo Cults may be found in Kamma 1972, 
            Steinbauer 1979, and Worsley 1957. In analyzing the phenomena of the 
            Cargo Cults, distinctions must be made between cults that arose in 
            areas under direct European colonial rule, and those that emerged in 
            areas outside colonial domination. (5.) This story and others 
            related to the Hwangyong-sa may be found in an English version of 
            the Samguk yusa in Ilyon 1972. An extensive discussion of the 
            Hwangyong-sa may be found in McClung 1978. (6.) For a description 
            and discussion of the great monument complex at Sanchi, see LEE 
            1964, 84-86. A discussion of the diffusion of the sacred gate of 
            Buddhism from India to East Asia may be found in Kail 1975, 17-18. 
            (7.) A thorough discussion of this trend may be found in Lee 1969, 
            14-16. (8.) A description of this shrine and its setting may be 
            found in Clark and Grayson 1986, 185-87. (9.) This claim was first 
            made in an article by the missionary scholar James Scarth Gale 
            (1863-1937). See GALE 1902. 
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